John Muir Trail - Day Eight

We woke up to a normal schedule but made our way off of the JMT towards the Lake Edison “ferry”. It was about 1.5 miles to the planned ferry landing site and then another mile or so along the dry lake bed since the water level was so low. A line of orange buckets was setup to direct us to the correct spot on the lake bed and we were first in line to catch a boat. With the lower water level the larger ferry was replaced with a small motor boat.

Our phones didn’t get reception there but luckily a group behind us was able to call the VVR and request the boat. I’m not sure what times they go back and forth otherwise. We waited on the shore skipping rocks, fishing, and talking to fellow hikers. When the boat pulled up it was only able to fit our group of 5 with backpacks piled high. It was about a 15-minute trip to the VVR and the boat driver pointed out an Osprey flying overheat at one point!

Once ashore we transferred to a pretty old looking van where we sat on milk crates in the back. It was a bumpy ride to traverse the dry lake bed and up the old boat ramp. It was sad to see the lake so low, especially knowing that the VVR is usually a lake front property! When we got to the resort the owner Jim immediately welcomed us and told us about the amenities. We were extremely lucky to find 2 open rooms! We all took much-needed hot showers and went to the restaurant to get some lunch. The resort itself is fairly small – a few rooms, a few tent cabins, a campground, showers, laundry, a store, and a restaurant. Having a shower in our own room was incredible but the camping showers looked nicer than Red’s Meadow too.

For lunch I had a chicken wrap with french fries, onion rings, and beer. The VVR gives each thru hiker a free beer and they have a great selection! We did a bit of laundry and sat around drinking more beer and playing horseshoes. Following a glorious nap in a real bed we played Frisbee golf on a course setup in the dry lake bed. I was consistently in last place but had a lot of fun! After 2 rounds we worked up enough of an appetite to head back for dinner and we were in luck – it was BBQ night at the VVR! I chose the chicken option and it looked like an entire half of a bird with a tasty rosemary seasoning. It came with green beans and a baked potato, and we all had another round of beer and shared a slice of berry-peach pie a la mode. I can’t even begin to describe how delicious the food was after being out in the wilderness. After dinner we sat around a campfire with other JMT hikers trading stories and hiking plans.

The VVR really caters to thru hikers and even lets hikers stay and work for food. I’m so glad we chose to spend a rest day at the VVR, I had no idea places like that existed in the Sierras! The only downside is that it makes it a bit more difficult to get back on the trail so I wouldn’t spend more than one rest day at the VVR.