John Muir Trail - Day Sixteen

Our first challenge of the day was Mather Pass, 3.8 miles away and 1500’ above our campsite. The trail started out fairly gradual along Lower and Upper Palisade Lakes. I thought I spotted the Pass from the lakes but it looked way too far away! Of course, as we climbed higher I couldn’t see any other way out of the valley except over that pass. We had nice birds eye views of the Palisade Lakes behind us and then came upon some rocky switchbacks. The climb was tough but I felt pretty good to get it out of the way in the morning.

From the top of Mather Pass [151.1mi, 12100’] we had spectacular views south towards alpine lakes in Upper Basin and the South Fork Kings River valley. We had a quick snack before heading down the switchbacks on the south side. We stopped for lunch at a pair of high elevation ponds about 1 mile from the top. From there it was all downhill to the river crossing where we would have to start climbing again. At first the hike was very exposed but it eventually turned into a nice forest with a few meadows along the river. Despite my cold, I felt re-energized going downhill.

We reached the South Fork Kings Crossing [156.7mi, 10040’] and decided to camp at Marjorie Lake which was less than 2.5 miles and 1000’ higher. That section took everything I had, especially the dry switchbacks in the forest near the beginning. In addition to being sick I think I told myself this part was going to be quick and easy, but it really wasn’t! Fortunately, after the forest the JMT delivered as it usually does and opened up into a gorgeous meadow passing a couple junctions, and ponds/lakes. Looking back, we could see all the way to Mather Pass, and it looked impossibly far away. I couldn’t believe how far we walked looking at that view.

We finally crossed the Marjorie Lake outlet [158.8mi, 11050’] and came to the campsite. It was around 5:30PM and the sun was about to set behind the mountains. I quickly chugged my recovery drink and dipped my feet into the frigid lake to wash up a bit. We ate dinner and setup camp. I felt exhausted, had a headache, and was completely congested from my cold. A couple other members of the group had their own ailments: fatigue, a stomach bug, and open wounds from backpack hipbelts. As I went to sleep I was very paranoid that the JMT would beat me once again!